A SURFTRIP INTO THE CARIBBEAN
After closing a DJ performance I get a cab back home, leave my record bag and grab my surfboards and backpack, get another cab & meet my friend TOCA... we head South East. I fall asleep while someone else is on the wheel and occasionally wake up to see it's raining.
DESTINATION: PUERTO VIEJO, LIMON (COSTA RICA)
The area borders Panama by the Sixaola river and is flanked by the Talamanca mountain range, a dense wall of green and mist. The names of places around here are: Hone Creek, Bristol, Bananito, Punta Uva, Gandoca, Penhurst. It's main population hails from Patois speaking Rastafari from Jamaica, who were brought to this place when the railroad was built for the banana industry; Bribri indians who know all the jungle secrets and live in reservations; loads of gorgeous foreign visitors mixed with a few Tic@s and you got a blend of angel with fiery wings thirsty for fun. This area is also home to Hibiscus, lizards, strange birds, sloths, Heliconia, blue gigantic crabs and butterflies.
Very lush, very humid, very beautiful, very dangerous...
The main reason for my visit is SALSA BRAVA.
This mutant wave comes from deep water as "IT" meets the coral reef, throws a below sea level monster which only a few dare to ride. Truly scary and difficult wave, but an incredible feeling once you tamed The Beast, which is the State Of Grace we all wish to experience in our Surfing Career. Fickle conditions make riding Salsa a true science. Often compared to Hawaii, it's a full commitment kind of thing. Here every inch of my board would count.
Because of it's tropical climate, Puerto Viejo can be extremely sunny... ideal conditions for nude sunbathing, which is the choice of the young and beautiful, especially at Cocles (Surfer's Beach) where all the daytime socializing takes place between fun beach break surf and hot golden sand. But remember: you are in the tropics... it can rain for dayswithout mercy and be prepared to take it "IRIE". The whole area is full of identity: colorful houses, hip little bars and tasty restaurants offering from gourmet lobster raviolli to the local fried chicken with rice and beans. Don't miss the bakeries, but avoid the surf camp soup, where a concoction of hermit crabs, crazy weeds and unidentified floating debris might push you into virtual madness.
The pace at Puerto Viejo is slow. You might have a beer... Nothing starts before 9AM and if it's raining don't bother to go out... just run to the beach when it clears out. Sunny days: prepare for the longest days...
Nightlife is a another matter... you have to see it for yourself to know what I'm talking about. It's unique... trust me: lots of Reggae, Dub, RnB, Hip Hop and finally a bit of Deep House... Everybody is going off!!! It's the etiquette. You gotta be a flirt, everybody's doing it; otherwise, stay at your hotel counting the nails on the ceiling. The attitude of 'Free Beat Culture" rules in this place.
SALSA BRAVA
The reason why I decided my destination is regarded as the "HEAVIEST WAVE IN THE HEMISPHERE": a true proving ground for any surfer who wishes to make a name for himself. The reef is "Godzilla Sharp" and the "inside water deal" is a game of survival and tactical positioning. You don't want to get caught inside!!! You have to learn the ropes with the locals. True old skool. Once you know your limit, you push a little further... but always keep it safe. In this matters, crowds are thin. Surfing is taken VERY seriously here, everyone is aware of their ability and there are no doctors in the area. It's another level of surfing.
FIRST PEAK is a short viciously hollow mass of water. If you take the right wave and manage the rest you can get the barrel of your life. All balls out, the intensity of this A-Frame is without a doubt matched only by a handfull of waves in the world.
SECOND PEAK is a filthy often long display of pure Caribbean Juice that still offers a challenging ride. Careful you might end up on the dry reef as this wave faces directly the exposed shelf just after the closeout section from first peak.
If you have the ability to continue, your ride could en at "Parquecito" in the downtown area and become a legend. People will be buying you drinks at night and women will be asking for your name.
Unknown "~NFS~Everything." Peaceful
- 15 years, 7 months, 26 days ago
